A pair of boots can look perfectly serviceable until dried mud has worked into the stitching, sand is trapped behind the lining and the fastening straps no longer grip. Knowing how to wash horse boots properly keeps them hygienic against the horse’s leg, helps them stay secure and can make a useful pair last far longer.
The right method depends on the boot. Lightweight brushing boots, fleece-lined tendon boots, neoprene boots, turnout boots and travel boots all handle water and drying slightly differently. Start with the care label if one is fitted, particularly on boots with sheepskin, leather trim, gel inserts or specialist impact-protection materials. When in doubt, a gentle hand wash is the safest option.
Before washing horse boots: remove the loose dirt
Do not put heavily muddy boots straight into a bucket or washing machine. Once wet, dry mud turns to grit-filled sludge, which is harder to remove and can work deeper into the fabric.
Let the boots dry first if they are very muddy. Fasten the straps, then use a stiff brush to lift off dried mud, hair and arena surface. Pay close attention to the inside of the boot, the edges of strike pads and the hook-and-loop fastenings. A mane and tail brush or old nail brush is useful for seams and around stitching.
Open each fastening afterwards and pick out trapped hair, bedding and sand. A fastening that is full of fibre may look closed but will not hold reliably when the horse moves. This is particularly worth checking on brushing boots and turnout boots, where a loose strap can rub or allow the boot to twist.
If the boots have removable liners, pads or faux sheepskin inserts, take them out before cleaning. Wash components separately where the manufacturer permits it. This gives every part a chance to dry fully and prevents damp being held against the boot.
How to wash horse boots by hand
Hand washing is the best all-round choice for most everyday boots. It is kinder to stitching, foam padding and protective shells, and it lets you focus on the areas that actually need attention.
Fill a bucket or deep sink with cool to lukewarm water. Hot water can affect glues, distort synthetic materials and make some foam-backed fabrics lose their shape. Add a small amount of mild detergent designed for technical fabrics, or a gentle non-bio washing liquid. Avoid bleach, disinfectant, fabric conditioner and strong household cleaners. They can leave residues that irritate skin, reduce the water resistance of some materials or weaken fastenings over time.
Immerse the boots and allow surface dirt to soften for a few minutes. Use a soft brush or cloth to clean the outer fabric, then turn your attention to the lining. The inside is the part that sits against the horse, so remove sweat marks, grease and trapped hairs thoroughly. For stubborn dirt, work gently in small circles rather than scrubbing aggressively.
Rinse several times in clean water until no soap remains. Detergent left in the lining can feel stiff when dry and may cause irritation on sensitive-skinned horses. Press out excess water with your hands, but do not wring or twist the boots. Twisting can crack moulded shells and misshape padding.
Cleaning hook-and-loop straps properly
Hook-and-loop fastenings deserve a minute of extra care. Use a pointed comb, blunt needle or stiff brush to tease out hair and fibres from the hook side. Brush the loop side gently to remove mud without pulling the pile loose.
Close the straps before washing and drying if possible. This stops the hooks catching on fabric, fleece or other boots. If a fastening has become worn and no longer grips, cleaning may improve it, but it will not restore flattened or damaged hooks. Replace the boots if they cannot be secured safely.
Can horse boots go in the washing machine?
Some fabric boots can be machine washed, but only if the care instructions specifically allow it. Brushing boots without rigid shells are often more suitable than protective tendon boots, travel boots or boots with gel, leather and fleece components.
First remove as much dry dirt as possible. Fasten all straps and place the boots in a mesh laundry bag or pillowcase to prevent them catching on the drum. Wash them on a cool, gentle cycle with a small amount of non-bio detergent. Do not add fabric conditioner, and avoid washing boots with clothing, towels or saddle pads that could be damaged by grit or hard plastic fittings.
Never machine wash boots simply because they are labelled washable. Check the condition first. Cracked shells, lifting trims, frayed stitching and loose straps can all worsen in a machine. A short hand wash is usually quicker than replacing a damaged pair.
Dry horse boots slowly and completely
Drying is where many good boots are spoiled. Direct heat from a radiator, tumble dryer, Aga or heated boot rack can make synthetic fabrics brittle, cause moulded sections to warp and dry leather trim too harshly. It can also encourage adhesives to fail.
Shape the boots while they are damp, especially taller travel boots or boots with structured pads. Leave straps open or positioned so air can reach underneath them, then place the boots somewhere warm, dry and well ventilated. A drying rack in a tack room with good airflow is ideal. If the lining is very wet, stand the boots opening-side down briefly to drain, then turn them upright to finish drying.
Drying time varies with the material and weather. Thin brushing boots may be ready overnight; thick neoprene, fleece-lined boots and travel boots can take much longer. Do not put boots back on a horse until the lining, seams and strap areas are fully dry. Damp boots are uncomfortable, can rub and are more likely to develop an unpleasant smell.
If boots have a persistent odour after washing, it is often a sign that sweat and bacteria remain deep in the lining or that the boots were stored damp. Wash them again by hand, rinse carefully and dry them in a more ventilated spot. Repeatedly masking the smell with sprays is less useful than getting the lining properly clean and dry.
Different materials need slightly different care
Neoprene boots hold water more readily than simple fabric boots. Rinse both the inside and outside well, then allow extra drying time. Check the seams closely, as sand often settles there.
Fleece and faux-sheepskin linings benefit from gentle brushing once dry to lift the pile again. Avoid hard brushing when the lining is wet, as this can pull fibres out. Genuine sheepskin should only be cleaned according to the manufacturer’s guidance, as ordinary detergent can affect its natural qualities.
Leather-trimmed boots need minimal soaking. Wipe the leather with a damp cloth, clean the fabric sections carefully and use an appropriate leather conditioner once dry if the manufacturer recommends it. Do not apply conditioner to suede-like synthetic grip panels, hook-and-loop straps or the lining.
Hard-shell tendon and fetlock boots are usually straightforward to clean with a bucket of water, mild detergent and a cloth. Inspect their edges and fastening points after every wash. A crack in a shell, exposed sharp edge or damaged strap is a safety issue rather than a cosmetic one.
Build cleaning into your boot routine
You do not need to deep-clean boots after every ride. Brushing off mud and checking the lining after use is usually enough, while a proper wash is sensible whenever they are sweaty, heavily soiled or starting to smell. Boots used for turnout often need more frequent attention because they collect wet mud, bedding and field debris.
Store clean, dry boots with their straps fastened loosely or laid flat. Avoid leaving them at the bottom of a damp grooming bag or piled underneath rugs, where they can lose shape and retain moisture. Keeping one pair for daily work and another for competitions or travelling can also make cleaning easier, especially through a wet British winter.
Clean boots are not about having immaculate tack for the sake of it. They help you spot worn stitching, failing fastenings and rough edges before they become a problem on the horse’s leg. A few minutes at the wash bay after a muddy week is usually time well spent - and means your next pair of boots is ready to do its job when you need it.